Goat Care and Goat Needs
Just like ownership of any other animal, goats have some basic needs to remain healthy, be happy and thrive.
Their main need is for companionship. Goats are sociable, affectionate herd animals. One goat by itself can get lonely. Two is better because they keep each other company. And do give them a cuddle and scratch every now and then. They will love you for it.
The main care requirements involve:
Each of these points is discussed below.
Water: Like any other animal, goats cannot survive without water. Make sure there is plenty of clean drinking water available.
Food: Although goats do eat a lot of grass, they do need supplemental food in the form of hay and/or leaves from trees such as wattle, and others for healthy digestion. (Beware of poisonous plants). Hay must not be mouldy or damp. If you have not tested the source of the hay open up a bale and check deep inside the bale. It should smell sweet and feel dry. Grains such as oats and barley can also be used as well as bran and chaff.
Milking and breeding does, as well as bucks, have much higher food requirements than non-milking/breeding does. It takes a lot of energy to produce milk and kids, so you need to make sure your doe is getting enough sustenance to maintain milk and/or kid production. Concentrates are recommended for breeding/milking goats because these provide large concentrations of energy and protein which would be difficult to obtain through grass and hay alone.
Is your land big enough? Optimal stocking rate is 4 goats to the hectare (2 1/2 acres).
Goats need an area under cover where they can shelter from the cold and the rain. They need a shed that is well ventilated, but not draughty, and they must be dry, otherwise goats can get respiratory illnesses. Goats also need shelter from the hot sun as they can get heat/sun stroke.
A goat requires a fully fenced area to prevent it from wandering off your property. The fencing needs to be of top quality, because goats are not stupid and they can quickly figure out weak spots. Beware of some larger wire mesh fencing, since goats can get their heads stuck in them. A smaller wire mesh is fine.
It is generally not a good idea to tie up a goat for several reasons:
1) they become vulnerable to dog and other animal attacks, which can render goats very anxious, and even aggressive, because they expect any approach from another living creature to be a source of danger to them.
2) there is a danger of suffocation, since the goat can get the tether around its neck. Chain is usually better than rope if you have to tie the goat up. It's also a good idea to have a swivel at each end of the chain.
3) goats don't like to feed on contaminated pasture.
So if you do need to tie up a goat, try and limit the times when it is tied up, and make sure the goat has supervision due to potential of suffocation from the tether and in case it gets attacked by another animal.
Hoofs need to be trimmed every six weeks, otherwise the hoof becomes distorted and uncomfortable for the goat.
Angoras are usually shorn twice a year, but they do shed naturally in spring if they are not shorn.
Cashmere are usually combed or shorn. If shorn, this is usually done once a year. Combing is usually carried out once a year at the time when the goat is shedding naturally. Combing is preferred if a higher cashmere yield per volume is desirable.
Like all pets, goats are prone to worms. There are several products on the market. Most popular are:
- Clear or Golden drench (some are not suitable for dairy breeds)
- White drench (Some brands are most suitable for horses and cattle but they can be used for goats as long as doses and quantities are modified. Drenches most suitable for sheep are preferable to those most suitable for horses and cattle.)
There are also pour on drenches such as:
- Pour-on drenches
Pros: They cover lice as well as lungworm, roundworm and liver fluke.
Cons: They do not cover Barbers Pole, Small Brown, Black Scour, Whipworm, Tapeworm plus other obscure types.
These drenches are best used with one of the other products above once or twice a year in conjunction with one of the others, at rotation times. Frequency of application depends on the type of paddock you have. Apparently eucaplyptus leaves provide some form of natural protection so if you have a bush block one application a year will do. Goats with little access to eucalyptus will probably need two applications a year. - Other drenches most suitable for horses and cattle can be used for goats if the dosage is modified. Drenches most suitable for sheep are preferable to those most suitable for horses and cattle.
The above information is a guide only. Please contact a veterinarian for up to date information regarding worm drenches.
If you need further information please contact
us.
|
|
||
|
Web site design by: |
. |
|
